Travel - Positano and the Amalfi Coast {part three} - Beachy Days and Pizza

May 17, 2017



The third and final part of our Amalfi Coast Adventure. The weather was amazing for our last few days so we soaked it alll up. You can see parts one here and two here.

We had planned to visit Capri on our trip and had earmarked Saturday as the best day weather wise to go. But as the week went on, we truly didn't want to leave Positano. I mean, Capri looks amazing and I'm sure we would have loved it if we'd have visited. But also we'd heard that it's super busy, fulll of tourists and v expensive. We didn't want a stressful day trying to escape the crowds or work out where to eat that would be half decent and not a rip off. The water and views look amazing from Capri but also we had that here in Positano. The ferry was 70 euros return so we decided to skip it. We'd go next time maybe, stay there for a night or two and do it properly rather than try and cram it into a day of our holiday. 



So we pretty much spent the last couple of days walking around town, lazing on the beach and picking up lunch from our favourite deli. I could have just lived those days on repeat forever. 

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Our favourite walk was going up through town and then down to Fornillo beach via the stairs at the other end of town rather than going up past the main beach {if you visit then this will make much more sense when you get there rather than trying to picture it beforehand}. 


I loved this view with the bougainvillea and all the boats.





In the mornings we pretty much had the beaches to ourselves. I'm guessing this wouldn't be the case in the summer, especially August when all the Italians take their holidays. 




Beachy days. 



A sparkly sea and a good book. 




The water was freezing





This deli, on the way down to the church, is where you want to go for lunch. Aubergine Parmigiana yes please.


We used to eat it on the beach everyday. And then share a gelato before finding shade in a little cove in the afternoon.







This idyllic little cove is in between the main beach and Fornillo beach with a set of steps down. It was always quiet and had shade from the rocks in the afternoon which Ben loved. 





I got this dress of dreams online here, but I think it's since been discontinued - I'm so sorry! I'm completely in love with the back and the cute buttons. 


My favourite photo from the trip 💘




On Friday night we went back to Lo Guarrancino for that pasta and those sea views again. 


Now that's a pizza oven. You never know if a favourite dinner will be as good second time around. But luckily this was just as we'd remembered it from the start of the week. 


On Saturday, it was a beautiful morning so we decided that we'd take the bus up to Nocelle in the hills above Positano and walk back down via Montepertuso, a small village. We hadn't got to do the path of the Gods walk earlier in the week so this was a good compromise for the views down without the steep climb from Praiano again. 


The views were definitely worth it. 


The paths are always so well marked out around the Amalfi Coast with little tile signs.


Positano down below.


and pretty Italian gardens on the side of the hills. They're often accompanied by vegetable patches, we always look for tips for our allotment. If only we could grow like the Italians do!







We gradually got lower and lower. Like with the other walks, you'll want sturdy shoes.  


Starving by the time we made it to the bottom we headed straight to our favourite deli to pick up lunch and then did a quick change and headed to the beach. 



Looking back, I realise just how much walking we did out in Italy! Which I guess is a good thing as we also did a hell of a lot of eating. We'd heard about the best pizza restaurant on the whole of the Amalfi Coast over in Praiano the next town along so we decided to walk there on Saturday evening and then get the bus back. 


We joked that we were on a pizza pilgrimage, walking 6km along the coastal road in search of the best pizza! It didn't disappoint. And the menu was extensive with all different kinds of specialities. We went for the extra long pizza between us. 


Ben said it was his favourite of the whole trip. I loved it but think I preferred the beach pizzas in Positano slightly more. But I was grateful for it bringing us to Praiano, such a gorgeous town with amazing sunset views. It's definitely less touristy, and not quite as impressive as Positano but with a real local authentic vibe. We didn't get a chance to check out the beaches but next time I hope we can get a boat across as the beach clubs should be up and running slightly later in May. 


Pizza with a view!




After our pizza, whilst waiting for the bus back, we went to sit in the main square in front of the church. It was a Saturday night so there were lots of locals and their children playing, the sky was bright bright blue and then the bells started ringing. It was one of those unexpected travel moments that you can't even explain how special it made you feel but just one that you know you'll remember forever - I hope!


I fell in love with this church and that beautiful tiled dome. 



Oh Italy. 






On our last day the sea was extra blue but also v choppy and they cancelled all the boat departures. Luckily we hadn't planned to go out that day but I overheard some people saying that they were now stuck in Positano and couldn't make their connections. I guess you could go by road but if you needed to be in Capri you'd be stuck. Apparently this can happen quite regularly when the sea gets rough so bear that in mind if you're planning a trip. 





We spent our last day on the beach, collecting washed up bits of old tile/pottery. 


And then couldn't decide if we wanted to go back to our favourite pasta or pizza place for our final night. In the end we decided to share pasta at Bruno's again and then share a pizza on the beach. Win win!




We had one final walk the long way through town. 






And vowed that this visit wouldn't be our last. We have to come back! 


That week was such a dream and I'm so grateful for every second of it. Steinbeck wrote about Positano 'It is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone' and I really get that now. Italy you're our favourite.

If you're thinking of going then here's some recommendations I found from friends who have been before and from reading other blogs;
Eat dinner at Da Vincenzo, Bruno's, Lo Guarrancino or Da Constantino {at the top of town}.
Eat pizza from Covo Dei Saranceni on the pier. The very best around! And you can eat it on the beach.
But also try Criscito's in Praiano for pizza.
Buy deli lunches from the little deli/grocery store on the way down to the beach from Mullini. It's up a set of stairs and has lemons outside. Buy the aubergine parmiagana!
Eat gelato from Buca di Bacco, the bar on the beach
Take the boat to Da Adolfo or Arienzo for lunch and an afternoon at the beach clubs. You prebook and then a boat will pick you up from Positano {we were desperate to do this but unfortunately were a week too early!}
Visit Praiano/Ravello/Amalfi/Sorrento/Capri/Naples/walk the path of the gods. There's so much to do.
But also just eat, sleep, beach and soak alll the magic up. 

R <3 xx 

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