Travel // Positano {the 2018 edition}

September 21, 2018

If you've been following this blog for a while, you may remember our first trip to Positano last May {blog posts here, here and here} in which we completely fell head over heels in love with this magical town on the Amalfi Coast. We used to have a rule that we'd never go back to places when there's a huge world to explore, but then again you don't come across places like Positano very often. And I'd been dreaming of it ever since! So when we were planning this trip to Italy, we knew we'd have to have a few days in Positano again. If you're looking for a full blog guide to Positano then see the posts linked above, these few days were just about revisiting some favourite places and going to a beach club which was shut during our May trip. If I'd have been worried about remembering Positano too fondly then I needn't have been, for it was dreamier than ever. The weather in September was so perfect and it's still one of my all time favourite places.

From Capri {blog post on that here} we took the earliest ferry to Positano, it stopped via Amalfi {where we'd be staying for the end of our trip} so we got some good views of both Amalfi and Positano as the boat docked. Again, we didn't buy our ferry tickets in advance, especially as it was the earliest trip out {most visitors on Capri would be day trippers getting a late boat back} and just bought the tickets that morning. 

Seeing this incredible, dramatic coastline from the water made us appreciate it so much more. Especially with Positano almost rising out of the mist. 

We had booked a day at Arienzo beach club for our first day in Positano because we couldn't check into our hotel {Casa Buonocore, the same boutique hotel as we stayed in last time}, until later that afternoon. I'd wanted so badly to go to a beach club during our last visit but we were just a week too early. The beach clubs, either Da Adolfo or Arienzo, pick you up from the harbour and then whisk you by boat for the day to enjoy their sunloungers and private beaches where you can then have lunch. It's quite the experience and not overly pricey considering. Although Da Adolfo is the most famous out of the two, it's a nightmare to book apparently whereas we just emailed Arienzo in advance to reserve 2 loungers and a table for lunch {a must do by the way} and got a reply straight away. We could also walk back from Arienzo which appealed to us. So we got off the ferry, Ben ran the luggage up to the hotel for us, and then we got on the first boat across to the beach club.

An experience I'd definitely recommend. I think it was 15 euros each for the boat/loungers and umbrella all day and then lunch on top. 

Plus you get these views on the way there!

Arienzo is the classic beach club with the orange stripey umbrellas. We loved the quiet beach with a sea perfect for swimming in and the most dramatic views when you were in the water looking around/up. 

I used to hate swimming in the sea but in places like this, I can't get enough. There's something so relaxing and pure about it too, no worries, no stress, just swimming in the great big ocean bobbing around in the waves. I just couldn't stop staring at the cliffs too and Positano round the bay.

We spent the morning on the sunloungers reading, shade for Ben, sun for me. And then went to have lunch.

We shared an aubergine parmiagana with a prawn pasta, deeelicious. 

It's the kind of place where you can sit in a towel & your swimming costume {as I did}, although there are showers/changing rooms which a lot of beaches don't have.

Oh to beam myself back there, even just for a few minutes!

I finished my book, and was pretty sad about it. You know those books that you don't want to end, but equally can't wait to finish to find out what happens? THAT.

After most of a day, we were ready to walk back to our hotel to check in properly. You can get the boat back, but we liked the walk along the coast road. Although it was a crazy steep climb up a lot of steps! But how incredible was this view. I would never picture that as Italy, it looks just like a tropical paradise on some island or Hawaii or somewhere. Ben said that this reminded him of a Jurassic Park scene.

Looking down from the {steep!} walk up.

The views from the coast roads are just insane.

Especially when there's a perfectly parked fiat to offset them!

Hello Positano! We were back and that view never gets old. In fact, I don't know if it's just because I'm fickle and forgot how much I loved this place last time, or whether it really did look better but I think the views blew me away even more on this trip. 

I mean, cactus, that turquoise sea and boats, what better view?!

Casa Buonocore had got even better too with a revamp for the room we booked, same as last time. It's one of the few boutique, yet still affordable, accommodation options in Positano.

We showered and relaxed for a while before getting ready for dinner. We didn't really go out in the evenings properly in Puglia, partly because none of the restaurants were open early enough for our liking ha, so getting all dressed up for dinner dates in Positano felt extra special.

Going back to a place means that you don't have to worry about where to go, just revisit all your favourites from last time. 

This guy <3 <3 <3.

The views walking to dinner. We love walking through town the long way, and then down to Fornillo beach. On our first night we ate at Lo Guarraninco, one of our favourites from before.

Stopping for a million photos on the way.

Obsessed with this hazy, serene calm sea and the olive branches framing it. We sat and watched the sky changed colour as the sunset. 

The sunsets around the coast from Positano so you don't see the sun hit the water, but the pink skies make up for it.

Sorry, way too many photos of pretty much the same view...

A seafood starter and then the pasta we'd been dreaming of ever since our last visit.

Aubergine and smoked mozzarella x 2 please. And luckily it was just as good as we'd remembered. 

We then walked back around the bay to Positano for a gelato and watched the lights come on above us as it got dark. Evenings like those don't get much better.

The next morning I went running along the coast. And it has to be up there with one of my most scenic, memorable runs ever?! 

I'm not sure how much running even got done as I had to keep stopping for photos every 5 seconds.

The sunloungers all lined up before another hot day.

Picture perfect. I can't quite believe we were there/it was real.

Breakfast was an impressive spread to return to.

Before a day at the beach. We stayed local this time, finding a little cove in between the main beach and Fornillo for the morning.

The delis are amazing in Positano and we were so happy to return to our favourite one to pick up lunch each day.

We decided to walk back around to Arienzo for the afternoon. Taking lunch with us. A caprese seeded baguette from the deli that no joke, was the best sandwich I've ever eaten.

Why does everything taste so much better in Italy?! I'm guessing it has to do with their fresh tomatoes and copious amounts of the best olive oil that I'd never be brave enough to use myself, but that in reality tastes so good.

For dinner on our second night we went back to Bruno, again another favourite from our trip before.

And shared these two seafood pastas. I'm writing this as I'm hungry for dinner, and I could SO eat that right now.

You get views like this from Bruno too!

Evening walks <3.

Cute little mustard fiat.

The next day we were leaving for our last stop of the trip, Hotel Santa Caterina just down the coast in Amalfi. So we had one last wander around Positano.

I'd bought this stripey blue beach dress the night before in Positano.

And then onto Amalfi. Stopping at the most scenic roadside fruit stall of all time for a few photos, perched high on the cliff.

Arrividerci Positano! Until next time... 

I learnt the hard way, after feeling car sick, that I shouldn't look on my phone or take photos around those crazy bends and high roads!

Back soon with the final part of this Italian travelogue and one that possibly even beats Positano!

Have you been? Is it on your list?

R <3 xx

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  1. We are heading to Amalfi end of May-I’ll be 20 weeks pregnant so thought staying in Amalfi might be easier. However, want to have a day in Positano. What sort of time were you heading out for dinners? The lighting is beautiful!


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