Travel // Mallorca {Part Two}

June 13, 2018


Part Two of our Mallorca trip {you can find Part One here}.


// Ecovinyasa Citrus Farm

Just a 15 minute walk out of Soller, Ecovinyasa is an organic orange & lemon farm with stunning views. We decided to book a visit {you must book a time slot online in advance before you visit so they know to expect you} and although there was an entry fee, it included a light lunch and all the oranges you could eat/drink. We wanted to visit as although there are orange & lemon trees across the whole of Soller, you can't really get close to any of them so we thought it would be nice to actually wander around and tour the farm. It was definitely worth doing and incredible to walk around and see things like Avocado and Pomegranate trees amongst the hundreds of different orange varieties. I just wished there had been some orange blossom still on the trees, my favourite ever scent!



I guessed it would have been rude not to wear my new Citron Pink City Prints dress.




Wandering through the citrus groves under the hot sun and the views of the mountains. There were a couple of little shady spots where you could sit under the trees and help yourselves to fruit. Despite visiting, I'm actually not a huge orange lover!






But I couldn't not try the freshly squeezed super sweet juice. Also, the tomatoes on bread looks totally unassuming and simple but it was the best ever tomato on bread I've eaten. It's a famous Mallorcan dish and oh my gosh I can still taste it now. 



// Port de Soller

Full of boats, Port de Soller is a pretty harbour with a long stretch of beach in the cove around the bay. We loved this area for all the buzzy restaurants and then wandering along, getting a frozen yogurt and finding a quiet bit of beach for the afternoon.





Pae-yay-lla! This was our first seafood paella out in Mallorca and it was SO good that I craved it after and we went back again later in the week which is always a good sign. The paellas vary so much depending on the restaurant/tradition but this was just perfect for me. We ate at one of the restaurants overlooking the harbour - this was called restaurant Rimes, it wasn't overly expensive either at lunch and reminded us so much of a paella we'd eaten in Barcelona last year. Really savoury, and almost black, which I prefer.


Plus, the views were pretty dreamy.


It's a perfect holiday feeling kind of place, with a few shops for souvenirs, ice cream shops, coffee stops, all the boats you could ever wish for and scenic views without being too busy or touristy {or tacky}












The walk round the bay is longer than you think! The port restaurants are at one end and the best bit of beach around the other, at least the extra steps help earn you a fro-yo! We loved The Petit Cafe for frozen yogurt.

// BBQs



We spent most late afternoons back at the apartment with Ben cooking a BBQ for us.




Local tomatoes, yummm.



This pretty wild Ammi was everywhere!


Sunflare.


Views from a run around Soller and breakfast in bed. We bought a whole box of local cherries to get through that week.


// Valldemossa 

We had a list of places that we wanted to try and visit so one morning drove along the coastal road {not for the faint hearted as it twists and bends, I hardly ever get car sick but definitely couldn't look down at my phone on this road. Although the views are insane so you're best off looking out at the coast anyway} to Valledemossa and Deia. A historic town set inland, lots of people had recommended this as the prettiest on Mallorca.





With plants everywhere again both on the streets and hung on the crumbly stone walls, with doorways and bouganvillea aplenty, it was pretty. But not my favourite town. Maybe we'd just been so enthralled by Pollenca, Soller and Fornalutx that we weren't so wowed by this? It was also busy with tour buses coming across from Palma with day-trippers there for the history and museums. We had a wander around, and if we hadn't had breakfast definitely would have stopped at Cappuccino in the main square. But then got back in the car to go back towards Deia.






Dress is past season I'm afraid.


When your husband matches the pink!


Botanical goals.





// Deia

Deia was really gorgeous and definitely had something magical about it looking out across the rooftops and palms.





There's a Belmond property here, La Residencia hotel which we had a little walk round {for research purposes!} and fell head over heels with. I'd definitely look into staying for a couple of nights here as a treat on a future visit.



In amongst the jungle. Seriously impressive pot displays.





// Cala Deia

The only thing with this coastline is that it's really rocky. Port de Soller is the closest sandy beach and then there's Cala Deia just a few minutes on from Deia which is a rocky little cove. The water is stunning but it's not like some of the other wider, sandy almost Caribbean like beaches over the other side of the island. I think this was our only criticism of the area but we still loved it nonetheless. We were heading here for lunch at the famous Night Manager at Cas Patros de March {phone ahead and book a table around a week before to guarantee a table, it gets packed and we weren't even there for school holidays!}.



You drive down a narrow, winding road just wide enough for 2 cars to pass and find a parking space on the side before walking the last bit to reach the cove and the restaurant perched on the rocks.



That sea!


And this guy.




Lunch starts at 1 but we decided to sit up at our table a little early, soaking up *that* view.



And watching the little boats put-putting in and out. Some of the big ones moored further out sending little dinghies in to the bay.


I felt like I had stepped into a page of Conde Nast Traveller and had to take a million photos just to make sure it was real.



We shared prawns cooked in garlic, bread, olives, alioli and calamari and it was heaven! 





As 1pm approached, the restaurant got crazy and was fully booked. Make sure you ask for a waterside table if you book!




When a big lunch calls for a sunbathing kindle session, holiday heaven?!



And evening walks for an ice cream {Soller has no less than 5 gelato parlours!} or milka most evenings... We walked around 20,000 steps every day out there.




A shutter an outfit series. {Dress was from Australia}




// The Pine Walk, Port de Pollenca

We'd been recommended to walk the Pine Walk at Port de Pollenca by lots of people so decided to drive there early one morning. There's a coast road through the mountains that runs from Soller to Pollenca but it's super windy and takes a lot longer than going inland, so we tended to stick to the motorways for speed most of the time. 



It seems like Port de Pollenca is a favourite for so many people to stay and come back year after year. Across on the other side of the island, it has a lot easier access to beaches and a few old towns like Pollenca/Alcudia etc. I think we would look at staying near here next time perhaps although Port de Pollenca was definitely a lot more touristy because of this - with both a Mcdonalds' and a Burger King in town. It felt a lot more built up. Not resorty, it was still lovely but just a big difference to the more sleepy parts of the island we'd visited so far.



The Pine Walk is lovely though, running around the bay. It gets nicer as you walk towards the Hotel Illa' Dor end of the bay away from the town. The smell of pine trees, that perfect holiday smell, and the waves lapping next to the path. There were lots of restaurants/cafes on the water too which would be nice for a drink or breakfast/lunch.







Obsessed with this view. We drove round to Formentor Beach, you can get boats there from Port de Pollenca which would save the winding drive. It was a little overrated I thought, although maybe it was just because it was a bit choppy? But the beach was too narrow to sunbathe on.


// Lunch at Sa Fordada

We had a really special lunch one day at another restaurant from The Night Manager which is only accessible by boat or a 40 minute hike down the cliffs! Again, we phoned to book, I wasn't going to risk that walk without knowing we'd be guaranteed paella at the end!


It's down by where that hole in the rock is. You park at  and Son Marroig then walk down through a gate following the track with the sea alongside the whole way down. It's a steep walk but so worth it.






We made it! 




There was more than paella on the menu but we couldn't resist it, watching the chefs cook it over a wood fire.



Definitely a lunch to remember.





Soller in the evening, all buzzy. I love European squares.


// Walking to Port de Soller

One day we decided to walk down to the Port, via the footpaths. It was such a gorgeous walk going along through the middle of the countryside and with amazing views. We thought that we might get the tram back but loved the walk so much we walked back after lunch and a morning at the beach.















DESPERATE to buy the Carte D'or crack sauce top fro yo/ice cream, I think it's similar to magic shell?! 


We drove back in for the evening and sat for a while listening to a singer by the water.



Magical light.



I have this thing with sunflares...



On our last day, we packed up and left Soller, driving across the other side of the island in search of some of the best beaches.


// Portas Vells

Our friends had just stayed at Portas Vells and I'd been eyeing up her beach photos all week so we based ourselves here. The beach, and water was pretty much a dream come true. Except, be aware that if you walk around the rocks to the left, you'll find even sparklier water but also sparkly nudists too! Keep your eyes on the sea... 












How is this real? We went for an ice cream at Port Adriano nearby, home to huge superyachts and swanky restaurants, it had a bit of a faux feel about it though.


And then it was time to head to the airport already. - Side note, Mallorca airport is huge and even has a Mango outlet! We flew right over the beach we'd spent the morning on and wondered how soon we could return already.


One of our favourite European beach holidays for sure! Have you been? 

A little summary;

A few other places we were recommended but didn't get a chance to visit {see this Instagram post for lots of recommendations too}.

Where to Visit
- Palma & the old Town. The city has become a minibreak destination in itself with various areas to discover, old streets, lots of shops {the Spanish know their fashion, think Zara & Mango for a start} a big marina, a huge cathedral and really trendy restaurants. Lots of people liken it to a mini Barcelona and I really want to visit next time. You can get an old train from Soller to Palma which goes through the pretty countryside and saves parking in the capital.
- Pollenca, both the old town and Port de Pollenca to walk the Pine Walk around the bay.
- Formentor and Cap de Vincent beaches up on this coast round from Pollenca
- Alcudia, a walled town with great markets and the beach & water here look gorgeous
- Cala D'or for beaches along with the Mondrago national park
- Es Trenc beach was highly recommended for looking like the Caribbean
- Deia, Valdemossa and Fornalutx are some of the prettiest old towns in the mountains
- Ecovinyasa citrus farm
- Portas Vells for *that* water and a soft sandy beach great for children

Hotels worth checking out
- The Son Brull Hotel
- Belmond La Residencia

Where to Eat
- Ca's Patro March, but book ahead!
- Sa Fordada, the restaurant only by boat or a walk
- Ca'n Pintxo for tapas in Soller kept getting recommended 
- Restaurant Rimes in Port de Soller for paella


R <3 xx 

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